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It is a very simple format, and you can use any text editor to look, change, and create a new one.
You can find a library of instruments definitions at the cakewalk ftp server.
There are also hardware MIDI interfaces for computers, providing MIDI IN and OUT ports, where you can attach MIDI cables to communicate the computer with external MIDI instruments.
This will help you to understand what kind of information is transmitted using the MIDI protocol.
In Linux you can try KMidimon and in Windows MIDIOX. You need a MIDI software synthesizer to hear the played notes.
Of course, an external MIDI hardware synth would be an even better approach.
VMPK can help you to change sounds in your MIDI synthesizer, but only if you provide a definition for the synthesizer sounds first. INS extension, and the same format used by Qtractor (Linux), and Sonar (Windows).